New Orleans Eats

Serving gumbo with potato salad is a tradition in some parts of the southern United States, especially in Louisiana. This combination has its roots in Cajun and Creole cuisine, where both gumbo and potato salad are staple dishes. Here's why this pairing works and is popular in the South:

Contrast in Textures and Temperatures: Gumbo is a warm, hearty, and often spicy dish, while potato salad is cool and creamy. Serving them together provides a pleasing contrast in both texture and temperature. The creaminess of the potato salad can balance out the heat and spice of the gumbo. A comparison can be made to how, as barbecue sides, warm, spicy baked beans pair well with cool and vinegary cole slaw.

Practicality: In some cases, potato salad is used as a substitute for rice, which is traditionally served with gumbo. It's a way to add another layer of flavor and texture without needing to prepare a separate dish of rice. Those experiencing the combination for the first time may be surprised to see a large scoop of the potato salad actually served in the gumbo rather than alongside. About half the restaurants in South Louisiana serve it that way.

Cultural Tradition: This pairing is deeply rooted in the food culture of the region. In many Southern homes and local restaurants, serving potato salad with gumbo is simply the way it's always been done, passed down through generations. There is some speculation that it may have much to do with the German immigrant population in Louisiana adding it own cultural input.

Flavor Balance: The typical style of potato salad served in this setting is very yellow mustard-forward. The acidity from ingredients like mustard or vinegar in potato salad complements the rich, savory flavors of the gumbo. It creates a balanced bite, where the tangy and creamy potato salad cuts through the richness of the gumbo.

This tradition is especially prevalent in the southwestern parts of Louisiana, such as Acadiana, where Cajun and Creole influences are strongest. The unique flavor profiles and cultural practices of the region are what make this pairing so beloved. Give it a try yourself!

The Caesar salad, or Caesar's salad, is a popular dish that was created in the early 20th century. The Caesar salad is credited to Caesar Cardini, an Italian-American restaurateur. The widely accepted creation date is July 4, 1924, at Cardini’s restaurant in Tijuana, Mexico.

The Story
Caesar Cardini operated restaurants in both the United States and Mexico. On a particularly busy Fourth of July weekend in 1924, Cardini’s restaurant in Tijuana was running low on ingredients due to an unexpected rush of customers.

To manage with the limited ingredients, Cardini improvised a salad using what was available. The original salad consisted of romaine lettuce, garlic, croutons, Parmesan cheese, boiled eggs, olive oil, and Worcestershire sauce, all tossed at the table to add a touch of flair.

The traditional Caesar salad includes:

Whole Romaine Leaves: Instead of chopping the romaine lettuce, the leaves were left whole, and only the crisp inner leaves were used. This was both for visual appeal and texture.

Garlic and Olive Oil: The bowl was rubbed with garlic to impart a subtle garlic flavor, and then olive oil was added.

Coddled Egg: A coddled egg (an egg boiled for just about one minute) was added to the bowl, providing a rich, creamy texture.

Lemon Juice and Worcestershire Sauce: Fresh lemon juice and Worcestershire sauce were added for acidity and depth of flavor.

Parmesan Cheese: Freshly grated Parmesan cheese was sprinkled over the salad.

Croutons: Homemade croutons, typically made from day-old bread, were added for crunch.

Tossing: The ingredients were then tossed together gently by hand to ensure that each leaf was well-coated with the dressing.

Classic Preparation and Consumption

Table-side Preparation: The salad was prepared and assembled directly at the table in front of the guests, which added an element of theater and exclusivity to the dining experience.

Eating the Salad: Since the romaine leaves were left whole, diners would pick up a leaf, often using their fingers, and enjoy it in its entirety. Eating the salad in this manner allowed diners to experience the distinct flavors and textures of each ingredient with every bite.

Additions and Variations
Anchovies: Though not in the original recipe, anchovies have become a common addition in modern recipes. Some say that the Worcestershire sauce in the original version provided enough of the umami flavor typically associated with anchovies.

Chicken Caesar: Adding grilled chicken breast is a popular variation.

Other Proteins: Shrimp, salmon, and steak are also common additions.

The salad quickly became popular in the United States, especially in California, due to Tijuana’s proximity to the state. Many Hollywood celebrities visited Cardini’s restaurant and helped popularize the salad back in the U.S.

Today, the Caesar salad is known worldwide and is a staple on many restaurant menus.

Controversies and Myths
Aviator Salad: There is a claim that Caesar's brother, Alex Cardini, originally created the dish and called it the "Aviator's Salad," in honor of aviators from Rockwell Field Air Base in San Diego.

Authenticity: Various stories and recipes exist regarding the "authentic" Caesar salad. The debate often centers around whether anchovies were part of the original recipe and the exact method of preparation.

Legacy
Caesar Cardini’s Daughter: Rosa Cardini, Caesar’s daughter, played a significant role in maintaining and promoting the legacy of the Caesar salad. She helped market bottled versions of the dressing.

Culinary Impact
The Caesar salad has inspired many variations and remains one of the most beloved salads in the culinary world. It stands out for its bold flavors and simple, yet sophisticated, presentation.

Bananas Foster is a classic dessert with rich flavors and a dramatic presentation. Its origins can be traced back to New Orleans, Louisiana. Here are the key details about its creation:

Invented in New Orleans, Bananas Foster was created at Brennan's Restaurant in 1951. The dessert was developed by Paul Blangé, the chef at Brennan's, and was named after Richard Foster, a friend of Owen Brennan, the restaurant's owner.

In the early 1950s, New Orleans was a major hub for the importation of bananas from Central and South America. The dessert was created to highlight this abundant fruit and showcase its versatility.

Bananas Foster is made from bananas and vanilla ice cream, with a rich sauce made from butter, brown sugar, cinnamon, dark rum, and banana liqueur.

Here's a basic outline of the preparation:

Sliced bananas are sautéed in a mixture of butter, brown sugar, and cinnamon until they are tender and caramelized.

Dark rum and banana liqueur are added to the pan, and the mixture is flambéed (set on fire) to burn off the alcohol and infuse the dessert with a rich, deep flavor.

The caramelized bananas and sauce are poured over vanilla ice cream for a delightful contrast of hot and cold.

Bananas Foster has become an iconic dish in New Orleans cuisine and is often associated with the city's vibrant culinary scene. Its dramatic preparation, especially the flambéing process, makes it a popular choice for special occasions and restaurant presentations.

While the classic preparation remains popular, there are many variations of Bananas Foster. Some chefs incorporate different types of alcohol, spices, or even add nuts or other fruits to create unique versions of this beloved dessert.

Gumbo is a rich, flavorful stew or soup with deep roots in Louisiana cuisine, blending African, French, Spanish, and Native American culinary traditions. Its variations reflect the diverse cultural influences and regional ingredients of the area, and there's often debate over what should or shouldn't go into a "proper" gumbo. Here are some of the key variations and points of contention:

Types of Gumbo

• Seafood Gumbo: This version typically includes shellfish like shrimp, crab, and oysters. Some variations might also add fish. It's most commonly found in coastal areas of Louisiana.
• Chicken and Sausage Gumbo: Often made with smoked sausage (like andouille) and chicken (sometimes duck or game birds), this version is popular inland. It has a heartier, more rustic flavor.
• Vegetarian or Vegan Gumbo: Though not traditional, some cooks prepare gumbo using only vegetables, legumes, and plant-based sausage alternatives, leaving out meat and seafood.
• Gumbo Z'Herbes: A traditional Louisiana gumbo eaten specifically during Lent, can contain up to a dozen or more different greens (an odd number for good luck).

Points of Debate on Ingredients

• Roux Type: The roux is the cornerstone of gumbo, made from fat and flour cooked together. Opinions vary on how dark the roux should be:
  • Dark Roux: A rich, deeply browned roux is common in Cajun-style gumbos, lending the dish its signature smoky flavor. Dark roux adds body but little thickening.
  • Light Roux: Creole gumbos, particularly those with seafood, may use a lighter roux, offering a less intense flavor and more thickening power.
• Okra vs. Filé: Traditionalists may argue over the use of okra versus filé as a thickening agent. Some believe that gumbo must contain okra, while others prefer filé, especially in versions served without okra. In coastal areas, seafood gumbo with okra is common, whereas filé is more prevalent inland.
• Tomatoes: The inclusion of tomatoes is another hot topic. Some cooks, especially in New Orleans (Creole-style gumbo), add tomatoes, while many Cajun purists argue that tomatoes have no place in gumbo. Tomato-based gumbos tend to be lighter, while others argue the dish should be darker and richer.
• Rice vs. No Rice: While gumbo is almost always served with rice, some argue about how much rice is appropriate or whether it should be served at all. A few versions might even incorporate rice into the gumbo itself.
• Sausage Type: The use of smoked sausage, especially andouille, is common in many gumbos. Some cooks use other types of sausages, but purists may insist on the use of andouille for authenticity.
• Meat Variety: Chicken, particularly dark meat, is popular in non-seafood gumbos, but some versions use turkey, duck, or wild game like venison. Purists often draw the line at non-traditional meats.
• Spice Level: How spicy a gumbo should be varies significantly. Some prefer it mild, letting the natural flavors of the ingredients shine through, while others think gumbo should pack more heat, usually by adding cayenne pepper or hot sauce.

Cultural and Regional Variations

• Cajun vs. Creole: These are the two main regional gumbo styles:
  • Cajun Gumbo: Generally more rustic, Cajun gumbo often features a dark roux and meats like chicken and sausage. It may not include tomatoes and typically uses local wild game.
  • Creole Gumbo: This version reflects the more urban influences of New Orleans, often containing seafood and tomatoes. It’s considered a bit more refined and lighter, with a greater variety of seasonings and vegetables.
• French Acadian Influence: The Acadian influence, brought by settlers expelled from Nova Scotia, is felt strongly in Cajun gumbo. Their simple, countryside cooking brought the dark roux, while the Creole influence came from Spanish, French, and African cultures in New Orleans.

Modern Twists

With modern culinary experimentation, gumbo has seen adaptations that include unconventional ingredients like quail, sausage blends, turkey necks, smoked duck, or alligator. Though tasty, these variations might be considered "improper" by gumbo purists.

Conclusion: What’s "Proper"?

There is no single correct way to make gumbo, as the dish reflects the cultural and regional diversity of Louisiana. What’s considered "proper" often depends on local traditions, personal preference, and family recipes. Some believe gumbo without a dark roux isn’t gumbo, while others say it must have seafood, or that tomatoes are a necessity. The variations and debates over ingredients are part of what makes gumbo such a beloved and dynamic dish.

The Dobos torte and the New Orleans doberge cake are both classic layered desserts with rich histories and distinct cultural significance. Here's a detailed look at their origins, development, and connection.

The Dobos torte, also known as Dobos torta, is a Hungarian sponge cake layered with chocolate buttercream and topped with a thin layer of caramel. It was created by Hungarian pastry chef József C. Dobos in 1884. The cake was a sensation at the time because of its novel use of buttercream, which was not widely known. Most cakes at that time used whipped cream, which was less stable. The caramel topping was designed to prevent the cake from drying out, adding both flavor and a unique texture.

The cake gained widespread popularity after its introduction at the National General Exhibition of Budapest in 1885. Dobos traveled throughout Europe to promote his cake, making it popular among the elite and even royalty. Its durability and ability to keep well without refrigeration made it a preferred dessert for many years.

The Doberge cake is a New Orleans adaptation of the Dobos torte. It was created by Beulah Ledner, a baker of Hungarian descent, in the 1930s. Ledner modified the original Dobos torte recipe to suit American tastes and local preferences, and renamed it "doberge" to give it an air of French-ness.

The doberge cake typically consists of multiple thin layers of cake filled with a custard (chocolate, lemon, or other flavors) rather than the chocolate buttercream used in Dobos torte. The cake is often covered with a thin layer of buttercream and a poured fondant icing, which gives it a smooth finish. It is known for being extremely moist and rich, much like the original Dobos torte but with a distinctly Southern twist.

Beulah Ledner's bakery and her recipes became well-known, and the cake remains a beloved part of the city's culinary heritage. Today, bakeries in New Orleans still celebrate the tradition of doberge cakes, with variations that honor Ledner's original adaptation.

Chocolate and lemon are probably the two most popular flavors of doberge cakes. Most bakeries offer a half and half version to satisfy the many doberge fans who just can't make up their minds.

The connection between the Dobos torte and the doberge cake lies in their shared Hungarian roots and the adaptation process that transformed a European classic into a New Orleans staple. Both cakes are celebrated for their layered structure, rich fillings, and decadent taste, showcasing the versatility and enduring appeal of layered cakes across different cultures and eras.

In summary, the Dobos torte's innovative use of chocolate buttercream and caramel led to its prominence in Europe, while Beulah Ledner's adaptation of this cake into the doberge cake brought a beloved dessert to New Orleans, blending European elegance with Southern flavors.

The Dobash torte from Hawaii is another fascinating twist in the lineage of the Dobos torte, reflecting the cultural and culinary influences of the islands. Local baker Robert Taira had allegedly discovered the Dobos torte on a trip to Europe. The original owner and founder of King's Bakery, Taira adapted a recipe and created his own variation.

The Hawaiian Dobash torte is characterized by its lighter and more airy texture compared to the original Dobos torte. Instead of the rich chocolate buttercream used in the Dobos torte or the custard fillings in the New Orleans doberge cake, the Dobash torte typically features a chocolate pudding-like filling and frosting, which is lighter and smoother. The cake layers are usually a simple, moist sponge cake, which complements the delicate chocolate filling. The Hawaiian Dobash traditionally has fewer layers than the Dobos torte or Ledner's doberge.

The Dobash torte has become a beloved dessert in Hawaii, often enjoyed during celebrations and special occasions. It exemplifies the Hawaiian approach to cuisine, which often involves adapting and blending elements from various cultures to create unique, localized dishes.

The journey from Dobos torte to Dobash torte involves a process of simplification and modification, making the dessert more suited to the palates and preferences of the local population. In Hawaii, this meant creating a lighter and less rich version, three layers or fewer, that could be more easily enjoyed in a tropical climate.

The Dobash torte is a testament to how classic European desserts can evolve and find new expressions in different parts of the world. It highlights the adaptability of the Dobos torte concept, showing how a single dessert can inspire a variety of delightful and regionally distinct cakes.

The Dobash torte from Hawaii is a delicious offshoot of the original Hungarian Dobos torte, much like the New Orleans doberge cake. Each version maintains the essence of the layered cake but adapts the details to fit regional tastes and ingredients. The Hawaiian Dobash torte, with its lighter texture and pudding-like chocolate filling, is a perfect example of how traditional recipes can evolve and flourish in new environments, contributing to the rich tapestry of global culinary traditions.

Trivia: In New Orleans, the locals often call doberge cakes "dobash". Whether there's a Hawaiian connection or just a coincidental mispronunciation is uncertain.